SHADOWS
ON A CLOUD
BY NOEL LAFLIN
October 2000/May 2012
June 2012 - Looking westward toward the peak of the mountain.
When I was 16 years old I was invited
to climb Mt. San Jacinto, the lone granite giant looming over Palm Springs and
the valley floor below. The proposed
hike would begin on the Idyllwild side of the mountain, starting at a trailhead
called "Devil's Slide."
Ironically, I had broken my left leg in three places on this very same
spot two years earlier while sledding down an icy slope. The thought made me shiver that this was the
kick-off point for the hike.
Nonetheless, we would start here and wind ever higher up the trail,
making camp in two different locations over the weekend. We would then reach the peak, traverse a different
trail and ride the tram down the cable back to Palm Springs. Our
adventure was to begin on a Friday night, mid-October, 1969.
I was very excited, not only at the
prospect of this grand 25-mile hike, but happy to be in the company of good
friends. Chuck Bausback and his sons had become
very much a part of my life. We had met
the year before at Ahwahnee. Father,
sons and I bonded immediately; they made me feel like a member of the
family.
We drove to Idyllwild and parked at
the trailhead. It was after nine. It was
also cold with some frost on the ground.
You could see your breath.
Flashbacks of that all too recently broken leg weren't far from my
thoughts. I wanted to be away from this
area. It was pitch black as our
flashlights scanned the trail ahead.
Chuck knew the area well. In fact
he knew more than any man I've ever met to this day about California history,
geography, topography and trivia in general.
He charmed me at an early age and continues to amaze me with his vast
knowledge, not to mention both his humor and his wit some four decades
later.
So, off we trudged, the packs seeming
to weigh twice their weight while carried up the switchbacks. Sometime around midnight we made camp at
"Skunk Cabbage." Our little party
was cold and tired. Chuck got out the
gas burner and made hot chocolate. It
was down to freezing. We were at seventy-nine
hundred feet. It was a chilly night.
Come the morning I discovered our
exquisite surroundings. We were in a
pristine meadow, far removed from the smog and grit of LA. The sky was crystal blue, the trees majestic
and the wildlife plentiful. We shivered
in the early morning light looking for patches of sunshine in which to stand
and warm ourselves. When breakfast was
over we broke camp and were on our way.
We hiked that entire Saturday, stopping only for lunch and breaks. Any excuse to rest our packs was a godsend.
We climbed steadily, eventually making camp at a site scattered with large, strange rock formations. The day was quickly
drawing to a close. We were going to
lose the light soon. Chuck scanned the
sky and told us to drop our gear and make a move for the peak. We dropped our heavy loads and scrambled up
and over large boulders, now running up the trail. The sun was going down quickly.
We
reached the summit of barren granite. There was a small stone cabin, used in
emergencies for hikers in need of shelter.
Additionally, there was a ledger in a metal jacket cover in which to
write your name, date and thoughts.
There was a US Geological marker at the very highest elevation. All of this was interesting, but what
captured my attention was the view.
Chuck spouted off several facts:
San Jacinto is unique in that it is a mountain range all unto itself,
raising 10,834 feet right out of the desert floor. It's the second highest prominent peak in
Southern California, barely beaten out by San Gorgonio, now visible to us miles
away in the distance. “This
is the steepest vertical rise of its kind, boys; look about you … look
below!" And, look we did. It seemed like the entire world was laid out
beneath us. With wind blowing hard in
our faces, our noses dripping, our backs aching from the all-day climb, sweat
drying and chilling us to the rocks, we stared below. A vast triangular shape loomed over the
entire Palm Springs basin. It was the
shadow of the mountain. Its length must
have stretched forty miles or more across the desert. The sun was sinking fast behind us.
Looking eastward there was a band of
pink and white clouds, somewhere in the direction of Arizona. As the sun sank lower, a small black pyramid
of a shape suddenly appeared on the bank of those eastern clouds, another state
away. We all stared intently at that
small black triangle, dead center in the middle of the cloudbank. It was a perfect silhouette.
“Of what?” I wondered.
"No way … that’s us," I whispered in
answer.
Similar thoughts were erupting from
the others.
"Wow,
that shadow on the clouds ... it's this mountain!" one boy ventured.
We were in collective awe. I felt as if my spirit had been transported
to those far away clouds at the speed of light, which in fact, it had. It was light that was causing this
phenomenon.
The small shadow of our mountain lingered a
bit on the cloudbank, and then began to slip away. With the final dip of the
sun, so did our shadow. The illusion was
gone.
It was dark, beyond twilight
now. The wind was picking up, sending
the nickel balsa gliders we had carried to the peak and tossed into the air (to
see if they really would fly all the way to some golf course far below) back in
our direction. Their flight patterns
were helter skelter as they crashed at our feet. And it was cold. We reluctantly gathered our broken planes and
left the summit, each of us glancing over our shoulders for one last look at
what had been. There were only puffy, fading clouds now.
"Wow," I whispered for the
tenth time,
"Wow," another echoed in
quiet reply.
We made our way back to camp. After dinner we spoke in hushed voices of
what we had seen. ‘Awesome’ and ‘Fantastic’
were two words that kept creeping into the conversation.
The next morning we hiked out of this
wondrous spot and met our friends at the tram station. I had never been in a
cable car suspended by huge fantastic wires like this. We glided down the mountain leaving one environmental
zone after another behind us; from alpine to desert in mere minutes.
“Unbelievable," I quietly chanted
again and again. I kept staring up the mountain
as it grew further away. I continued to
stare at it as we drove down Highway 111 and onto the 10 Interstate. I stared until it was out of sight, but never
out of mind.
There are times to this day, when I am
driving within certain parts of this or a neighboring county and the air is
clear and fine and the angle just right, that I catch a glimpse of San
Jacinto. Its jagged crown is very
recognizable. Each time I see it, even
if for only a moment or two, I am transported back to 1969.
I
have since made the hike to the summit three more times over the course of these
40 years; once for each decade I suppose. And, I even lost the trail for a considerable
amount of time on one memorable 4th of July hike – reclimbing the
damn peak by sheer accident and self-induced ineptitude. But I've never been there again at sunset. It would probably not be the same anyway.
However, if there were a chance for
distant clouds in the
east, I might just be tempted to make that hard climb once more and linger till dark,
waiting for far away shadows.